Dec 10, 2012

A STROLL IN THE PARK- Hiking in Southern Tanzania


We are walking down a dry riverbed when a bush growls at us, a deep rumble of pure menace: not one step closer!

It is a lioness hiding in the bush, but we can’t see her, so it feels like the bush is doing the growling.  It is almost certainly the one we saw last evening, a mother with young cubs - this would explain her urgent warning.

We decide to take a wide detour around the bush…

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A bull elephant digs patiently in the riverbed, using his trunk and forefoot. When he hits water he sucks it up delicately with his trunk before squirting it into his throat.  After drinking, he throws cool, wet sand all over his back.

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Boating on Lake Tagalala, a Humblot’s Heron – the only one on the continent, we are told – takes to the air on huge wings.   


A jewel- like Malachite Kingfisher watches from a branch...


...as a Water Monitor passes by.

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We disturb a herd of buffalo on their way to water.  They turn to stare at us before wheeling and thundering away across the plain, kicking up a curtain of pale dust that glows golden in the morning light.

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We sit by a pool with over 200 hippos snoozing the hot hours away. Every so often, one lets out a resonant honking call: others join in, a deafening crescendo of sound, before settling down again.

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Game drive to Lake Manze.  On the track, several sets of paw marks: Wild Dog!  We follow for some time, before they veer off into thick bush where we can’t follow.

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An inquisitive Sand Snake lifts his head to have a good look at us as we walk by…


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Udzungwa Mountains. The forest guide beckons us over to a bush.  ‘Can you see it, there?’  We peer and crane, and suddenly there it is – an extravagantly coloured and frilled Praying Mantis, perfectly camouflaged on the delicate blossom.



Later, after dinner, we find an Udzungwa Dwarf Chameleon.  He measures about 2.5" (6cm) long.

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Sitting on a granite ledge overlooking the Kilombero Valley, with the Sanje River leaping out into the void, a thin curtain of spray tumbling 170m to the rocks below.



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